|
| Vancouver Island Alpine Guide |
Colonel Foster is the third highest peak on Vancouver Island and with out a doubt the premier alpine objective. The Colonel is made up of a long serrated ridge, with an impressive 3500' east face that rises dramatically from the end of Landslide Lake.
Access to the mountain is provided by the Elk River Trail and its branch up Landslide Creek. A rough and indistinct trail goes around the east side of Landslide Lake, ending at the far side of the lake. Boulder hopping up the river feeding the lake leads to the snow field at the base of the East Face.
Even though this is the easiest route on the Colonel, due to its length, most parties fail to climb it. It is strongly recommended that parties camp as high as possible, preferably at the base of the snow gully. Also the group size should be kept small so that it can move quickly and avoid self induced rock fall.
Only a small selection of small chocks is needed, but due to the nature of the rock a few thin pins would be a good idea. Plenty of water should be taken since there is none passed the gully.
East Face of Colonel Foster from high on Elkhorn. The scar on the North Peak (right end of the ridge) is from the 1946 earthquake, which resulted in a slide that ran all the way into Landslide Lake at the bottom left of the photo. Trees were swept off the slopes 30m above the lake and the Elk River Valley was devestated for several kilometers. This photograph was taken Nov 1978, since then the glacier at the bottom of the face has melted out and become a lake. Sandy Briggs |
From the creek draining the snow basin at the base of the East Face, turn to the right and hike up the moraine towards the North Peak. As the moraine steepens (500m) head into the woods and thrash up to the boulder basin bellow the North Peak (rough campsite). From this basin a large gravel gully leads up to the ridge north of the North Peak. A small camp site can be found on top of the ridge just before dropping down to the base of the snow gully.
In early spring the snow in the gully should be continuous, giving an easy ascent requiring crampons. During the summer a third of the way up a burgshrund forms. This can be circumvented on either side, but the left side is easiest. 10m to the left of the burgshrund leave the snow and climb up to a sloping talus terrace, class 4+. In late summer a moat could make it almost impossible to reach the rocks. On the descent there is a rapelle station located just bellow the terrace, consisting of slings rapped around a horn, this is best located on the ascent. Climb to the top of the snow couloir between the N and NW summits, avoid the temptation to traverse west on a snow covered ledge. Caution! Late in the summer the snow can be dangerously undercut and another burgschrund might appear.
From near the top of the gully the route ascents the rock on the right to reach a notch in the ridge. The first pitch ascents to a sloping ramp that is lower on the right. First traverse right, then up over shelves and cracks to gain the ramp around a corner, class 4 to low 5. A rappel station, consisting of 2 pins, is located here and a 40m rappel will reach the gully. Stroll left up the ramp to its end, directly over the snowy col between the N and NW summits. Then ascend directly upward 100m of class 3 to the notch. From here a short 3m wall, easy class 5, leads to more ledges. Class 3 climbing leads to the top of the ridge. An exposed catwalk leads to the base of the NW summit, which is a short side trip but need not be climbed to reach the NE peak. Good bivi site.
From the broad boulder gully just bellow the NW summit drop west on loose scree to the solid lichen covered rock at the top of a small western spur. When a steep step prevents easy progress down the spur descend 50m of steep cracks towards the NE summit to a grassy ledge, class 4. Next descend, at first away from the notch, and then back toward it, on good rock. About 45m of class 3-4 will almost get you to the notch. On the east side of the notch there is a large chockstone with a window beneath that provides a good view of Landslide Lake.
Begin the climb of the NE peak with a couple of class 4 moves, then ascend scree slopes to the right of a large boulder. Traverse left, east, on scree ledges when forced to by cliffs. On the right you will see a large pointed detached block with a chock stone caught behind. Crawl under the chockstone to a comfortable stance. From here head directly up the ridge crest to a large exposed flake on the east side of the ridge. This is exposed and awkward to surmount but not too hard, above which is a secure belay. Alternatively traverse to the right from the chockstone and climb the second loose gully to the same belay. On the descent it is possible to rappel from the belay to the near the top of the chockstone.
Next climb over a flat sloping boulder with a wall on the left and ascend NE summit on class 3-4 terrain to right of the ridge crest. The NE summit is broad with big boulders and would be a good bivi site. From the NE summit an arete leads toward the main peak. Keep to the right/west, to pass the large boulders at its end. A short class 5 down climb leads into the last col. From the notch descend a rotting dike 10m to a ledge on the right. Climb a couple of stiff class 4-5 moves to a large boulder terrace. A couple of pins on the terrace provide a rappel station for the decent. Swing right and around the corner. Climb back left up a gully directly to the main summit. There is a small cairn and as of September 1988 a register. AGB,DGB
From the creek draining the snow basin at the base of the East Face, turn to the left and ascend the gully on the left side of the East Face. Until mid July this gully is filled with snow and is easy to climb. Later in the year the narrow lower part of the gully melts revealing loose rock. Above the narrow section a permanent snow slope gives access to the col south of the South Summit, where a good camp site is located.
From the col head up a gully slightly to the west of the ridge top, then scramble up to the top. DGB
From the South East Summit rappel into the jagged gap separating it from the South West Summit. Carefully climb across the very airy catwalk in the gap. At the base of the South West Summit traverse to the left slightly, then scramble up to the summit.
It is harder to regain the South East Summit since the crack system rappelled down is class 5.4 to climb up. DGB
Last Updated: Sept 7, 1997