Vancouver Island Alpine Guide
The Red Pillar - 2031m


West Ridge

Class 4

From the Cliffe Glacier ascend on snow to the obvious notch in the west ridge. Late in the summer a burgshrund may appear just before the notch. Pass through the notch and ascend a gully to reach a thin rock wall. Climb over the rock wall into another gully coming up from the south. At the top of this gully ascend a rock ramp on the right and over a step. Scramble up easier ground to reach the summit plateau.

Don Berryman


South Face

FRA: Aug 2, 1987; Sandy Briggs, Ignus Fluera, Wendy Richardson, Don Berryman;
Class: 4

The south side of the Red Pillar can be accessed from Oshinow Lake, which is reached by logging roads from Port Alberni. From the boat launching ramp canoe to the mouth of the Ash River at the west end of the lake. When rapids prevent further progress up the river, beach the canoe and work your way up the north side of the valley heading for the divide between the Ash and Puntledge Rivers. Thrash through thick bush to the west side of the divide. Ascend slightly to the right and follow a good bear trail up through the cliffs. Head west up the crest of the ridge, breaking out of the trees as the ridge levels off above Esher Lake (good campsites).

Follow the ridge around Esher Lake and head north to reach the summit block of the Red Pillar. Scramble up to the base of a prominent gendarme. Ascend the gully on the right side of the gendarme to the top. Scramble up the face on the right to reach the summit plateau. Take care to note where the route joins the summit plateau for the decent.

Don Berryman


VIAG | Contents | Strathcona Park East

Last Updated: Sept 13, 1997

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