Vancouver Island Alpine Guide Warden Peak- 1969m/6460'

Access for Warden is to take the North Island Highway from Campbell River to Port Hardy. At the Sayward turn off take the White River Logging Road South. I forget how long the drive is about 30-40km. The road eventually swings to the West and passes by the North side of Warden, but on the wrong side of the White River. There is a bridge across the White River about 4km past Warden that leads to old roads on the South side of the river that head back to the East. Park at the creek draining valley between Warden and Victoria Peaks, about 1km.

The route follows the creek South to 3000' through relatively open forest. At 3500' the slope eases off and the old growth forest gives way to an alder thicket. During the winter avalanches come down the creek gully which runs under the south face of Warden. A smaller creek comes down from a small tairn to the south.

If you are early in the year and there has been a good snow pack head east up gully. This passes through a very narrow gorge and care has to be taken that the snow is not undercut by running water! If this is unpassable you can avoid the gorge by first heading west back into the old growth then heading up to the Tairn at 3600'. You have to head west to avoid a cliff. From the Tairn an ascending traverse will lead back to Warden.

Head east and up within several 100' of the Warden - Victoria Col., the top of the creek gully. When possible head North underneath the summit block of Warden to gain the NW ridge of Warden just to the Northwest of the summit. (class 3-4)

From the ridge traverse a rope length out onto the North Face of Warden. Early in the year this will be steep snow and very exposed; so bring a picket or snow fluke. Then head up 2 rope lengths to the flat summit of Warden (class 4-5).

This trip is best done by a long day trip from the car. Of course this requires driving up the day before and not getting back to the car till dark.

From Warden you will be tempted to do Victoria Peak. It can be done from the White River but it is inconvenient. From the Tairn you traverse south then east to reach the South Ridge of Victoria Peak, which can be reached faster and much more easily from Gold River.

Don Berryman