Rugged in Winter

Vancouver Island Alpine Guide
Haihte Range

This compact yet complex collection of glaciers and rugged peaks stands just W of the south end of Woss Lake and about twelve kilometers ENE of Zeballos. "The Chamonix of Vancouver Island" is substantially within the new (1996) Woss Lake Provincial Park though some key features, such as Zeballos Lake, were omitted. To the east of the Haihte Range is a traditional Native route across the Island, fron Tahsis Inlet up the Tahsis River and over the pass to Woss Lake, then through to the Nimpkish R. and on to the inside waters.Carved faces have been found on trees in this area, but the trail itself has long since been reclaimed by Nature.

Zeballos and surrounding valleys were the scene of vigorous prospecting early this century, and in the 1936-1943 period almost 300, 000 ounces of gold were removed, mainly east of the Zeballos river. Logging clearcuts now dominate the valley scenery.

The Haihte Range is bounded on the west by the severely logged Nomash River valley and by Zeballos Lake and its outlet, apparently referred to locally as Maraude Creek. About four miles up the Nomash R. the Quatsino limestone and Karmutsen volcanics are cut off on the S and W by the Zeballos batholith. This body consists largely of gray granodiorite and quartz diorite, manifest to the casual observer as a spectacular SE-facing sweep of (unclimbed?) granite slabs, summiting (3700ft) at the edge of a granite plateau referred to in early geological reports as Grayback peak.The upper rocks of the Haihte Range appear to be iron-stained tuffs, part of the Quatsino formation, as well as crystalline basalt, also iron-stained.In climbing terms the rock is firm, reddish, and full of crystals, providing excellent friction. There are localized friable formations.

The area is covered by federal topographical map 92 L/2 Woss Lake 1:50, 000 and by the newer 1:20, 000 TRIM sheet 92L.007. Peak heights given below are heights of nearest contour (feet) and TRIM spot heights (metres).

The highest peak of the range is Rugged Mountain (traditionally 6151', but lower, 1861m (=6106') on TRIM sheet). It stands at the south edge of one of the most extensive glacier systems on Vancouver Island, and dominates the view from fiord-like Woss Lake. Topographical surveyors as well as prospectors were active here in the 1930s and we do not really know (yet?) which summits they, or indeed the Native people who have lived here for millenia, may have ascended. The first recorded ascent of Rugged Mt. was by George Lepore and Chuck Smitson, with Bob Bissed accompanying them most of the way, in September of 1959.They approached by boat on Woss Lake and ultimately climbed the east ridge, still the most popular route. A second ascent is attributed to P. Merrit, T. Best, J. Walsak and S. Bjorklund, who approached from Tahsis.

The currently preferred access to the main peaks is from the Nomash valley.About 33 km from the pavement of the Island highway, en route to Zeballos, a sharp left turn leads across a bridge over the Zeballos river.This is Nomash main, and it crosses the Nomash within 1km. About 7.3 km from the Zeballos R., just after you emerge from the second-growth forest and pass a waterfall, a steep heavily eroded spur (N-20) leads up on the left.It goes to the hanging valley immediately beneath Rugged Mountain.The stream that drains this valley is Nathan Creek.Do not cross it. Hike N-20 until it levels out in the upper valley at about 670m. Above the clearcut to your left is a rock bluff. Ascend left of this to pick up the standard approach route. Ascend to the ridge top and follow it toward the mountain, keeping right to avoid difficulties. Look for flagging.At about the 1200m level traverse NE across a snow or boulder/scree basin and scramble up limestone outcrops to reach the col (1560m) immediadely N of Rugged Mt.Allow five hours from Nomash main.This is the edge of the biggest glacier of the group.There is room to camp here, and usually water is easily found.Please be careful disposing of human wastes.

I have divided the Range into three parts. The main part extends north from Rugged mountain and includes all the highest peaks and three of the glaciers. One subsidiary part I call the NW outliers, the other the SW blades. The NW outliers consist of six peaks of over 5000' roughly centered around a small alpine lake at GR630470. The SW blades are three peaks of over 5000' about 1.7 km due south of Rugged Mountain and flanked on the NE by the fourth glacier and on the SW by two tiny lakes (these two lakes do not show on the TRIM sheet.The northmost blade is not separately contoured on the 1:50, 000 sheet.) The subsidiary parts of the range have different access, described later. The diligent reader of Island guidebooks will have noticed the following passage on page 85 of Heather Harbord's (otherwise) great little book called Nootka Sound and the Surrounding Waters of Maquinna.

Rugged Mountain For the more adventurous, the local All Terrain Vehicle Club has a trail along the Tahsis River up to the 1, 876 metre summit of Rugged Mountain. This trail can be hiked in a day." You are cautioned not to take this statement too literally.(One recalls the old Vancouver Island Touring Map and Directory, which showed hiking trails up the east sides of both Victoria Peak and Warden. It would be fun to know how many tourists went looking for those.)

Sandy Briggs

VIAG | Contents

Last Updated: Sept 3, 1997

Email comment, corrections, or new material.