Vancouver Island Alpine Guide Triple Peak - 1559m/5115'

FA: Rob McDonald & Rick Epler
Class: low 5th
Time: 1 day

Triple Peak is a spectacular peak located at the head waters of Effingham and Toquart Rivers, 2km west of Effingham Lake. Until recently access was via an old logging road heading up Cat's Ears Creek. Recently, the logging roads up Marion Creek has been extended into the headwaters of both Effingham River and Cat's Ears Creek. This now makes Triple Peak possible as a day trip.

Currently the best approach is to scramble up the rocks, beside the waterfall, draining the hanging lake, on the north side of Triple Peak. Starting from where the Marion Creek logging road passes into Cat's Ears Creek watershed, head SW into the Effingham Valley. Drop down about 80m then traverse at that level, through the forest, to reach the waterfalls. At the half way point you will trip over a 20m deep fault line. Scramble up the water fall (poorly flagged), to reach the lake. Head around the east side of the lake, then up onto the snow field on the north side Triple Peak.

To reach the main summit (south most), hike up the snow field to the north face of the summit block. Slightly to the right of centre, follow a clean white angular ramp/crack system right about one pitch. When possible move left to reach a vegetated gully, that leads up to a deep chimney topped with a chock stone. Chimney up behind the chock stone and ascend steep heather to reach the summit ridge. Follow the ridge summit.