Vancouver Island Alpine Guide Steamboat - 1477m/'

Steamboat is a sprawling massif to the east of Highway 4 between Pogo and Hidden Peaks. While the main summit is not technically difficult it is extremely well defended and can only be approached indirectly from the North or South.

Up until 1998 all know ascends had aproached Steamboat from the North. The first ascent party used bashed up the creek leading directly to the "Lake District" from the North. Then the Caver's cut a rought trail from the logging roads between Pogo and Steamboat that lead Limestone out cropping NW of Steamboat. From here ridges lead to Steamboat, but this route is quite long and almost requires a 3 day trip.

A more direct route is now possible from the South. Logging roads now lead right into the col between Steamboat and Hidden Peak. From here the ridge can be followed North to Steamboat.

From the South

Hike up the Kenquot Main until you are at its upper reaches. In the top most clear cut, take the right branch down and over to the slopes leading up to North (560m). Head up throught the logging slash slightly to the left of a little creek. Continue heading straight up the slope keeping to the left of the little creek. The going is very steep but no there are no bluffs hiding in the trees. The bush is not too bad.

At 1000m start heading to right slightly to avoid the bluffy 1104m peak and reach the top of the ridge in the col between the 1104m and 1073m peaks (elevations are spot heights from the new 1:20,000 maps 92F.013 and 92F.023). From the col attempt to traverse the west slope of the 1073m peak, and get into the 1020m col north of 1073m.

From the col the route up the 1223m peak works its way up onto the ridge West of the peaks summit. You have to pass to the left of a set of cliffs blocking a more direct route and reach the ridge before it takes a steep step down. When you get on the ridge head up it to the summit of 1223m.

Drop down from 1223 into meadows and head NE across another col. After climbing up 40m step, head east and down to a large tairn at ~1120m. This is a permanent water location and a good lunch stop.

From the tairn there are two route choices. The fasted route would be to head North up the gully leading to the ridge SW of Steamboat. The alternative is to climb Limestone just to the East of the tairn, and then head up to the SW ridge. The Limestone is unique on Vancouver Island. It has been sculped by the 200 inch anual rainfall into a series of solution groves seperated by razor sharp fins of Limestone. Great care has to be taken not to get a cut. The solution groves tend to be just the right size to take the toe of a boot and the tracktion is excelent. Part way up though you will look down at the knife edge ridges and realize thay this yet another place you don't want to fall. Higher up the scrambling is less steep but you have to work your way around many pits and caves. It is not unlike a crevassed glacier.

From the Limestone traverse across the top of the ridge SW of Steamboat. The summit block is an easy scramble on the south side.